Proper Soul Video!!

Check it out at DeadPoint Magazine.

Before and After pics

Proper Soul 5.14a(R/x)

Friday I sacked up and lead Proper Soul clean on tradition gear. It was by far the hardest traditional climb I have ever attempted. Before this, 5.12a was my hardest traditional lead. A week ago I had rapped down Proper Soul and dialed in all the gear placements. However, this was the first time i had placed any of them on lead. I placed two number one Camalots in the first 25 feet. From here things start getting a little more sporty. The run out to the next gear placement is about 20 feet up and 10 feet to the left with the difficulty increasing with every move. The placement is from a flaring hand jam undercling that one can easily slip out of with no warning. I squeezed and focused all my energy into that hand jam. If i blew it i was well aware that my belayer would have a hard time keeping of the deck. After setting the #1 camalot i slapped my way into the crux dihedral where i placed a sketchy C3 and a HB brass nut to protect the finial hard moves exiting the dihedral. The next half of the climb i placed three trucker camalots; a .3bd, a 0 C3, and a .5bd to protect the finial crux.

The NEW

Two weeks ago I sent Proper Soul 5.14a at the Cirque at Endless wall(sendless no more). I had probably put ten days of effort into the climb and was psyched to finally send the rig. I had been working the climb with the legend himself Porter Jarrard. It was special to work Proper Soul with Porter because had a hand in bolting it back in the 90's. The day i sent Porter and I had identical first burns on Proper Soul. Both of us fell on the move leaving the dihedral. Porter had to head to work, but local Chris Helm and i stuck around. Chris gave me a great motivational/safety talk and then belayed me as i fought and pushed through the mid day heat and humidity on my way to the anchors. Thanks Chris!

Photo Credit: Taylor Strohmeyer.

With funds getting tighter, i picked up a job serving tables at Porter Jarrard's new restaurant the Vandalin. I have never served tables or even worked in a restaurant and i am excited for the opportunity and experience. If you stop through Fayetteville, I highly recommend the restaurant. The dinner entrees that come out of that kitchen are 5 star pieces of art that taste as great as they look. Check it out.

With the heat reaching the mid 90's and the humidity soaring i had to take a break from Proper Soul. I went out to the Upper Meadows to try this gear line called Black Crack 5.12c. Hear are some pics of my failed onsite attempt. Photo Credit: Kelly Andrews

Proper soul, Day 6

Temps in the 90's with high humidity equals no send. enjoy the pics. Photo Credits: John T Strohmeyor

Proper Soul, Day 5

Went out and hung a static line on Proper Soul this morning. Rapped down and brushed every key hold on the route. After hanging a line and rapping and jugging around for a while i felt decently warmed up. I got on the route around 10am and felt great. I blew by my previous high point and cruised through the powerful traverse. I skipped the last bolt and grabbed the finial holds when my left hand popped off one off the small crimps guarding the chains. I was both psyched and disappointed to get such a high point. I have one hung the route a couple of times now and feel really close. Heading out this morning for attempt before it heats up to much.

Photo credits: John T Strohmeyer.

Proper Soul, Day 4

Rested around Roger's Rocky Top Retreat all morning waiting for cooler temps. Finally made it to Cirque around 5pm. Warmed up on the first couple of bolts of proper soul. It was my sixth day on and temps were still in the mid 80's with about 50-60 percent humidity.

After warming up and watching a couple of locals give it some burns i was ready. Temps hadn't really cooled off much. However, three other people were in line and it was my turn. The climb felt a lot harder than it felt on previous burns. Non the less, i was still able to make it to my previous high point. I sorta freaked out a little and messed up my beta quite a bit. After the fall, i got back on and tried to take it to the top. I made it to the top in two hangs falling again in the hard traverse section above the dihedral crux.

My second burn was around 8pm. The sun had left the gorge and temps had dropped a little. I felt quite tired pulling into the dihedral and took a nasty fall leaving the dihedral. My leg slipped off and went directly behind the rope. I fell really awkwardly and had no chance to free my leg while falling. I just gritted my teeth and hoped for the best. Luckily, Emily payed me out a little extra slack and i was able to free fall into the air and avoid the wall with my head. I pulled back on and was able to go on and one hang the route from the middle of the dihedral.

Felt really good to do the route in one hang in such hot conditions. After six day of climbing i am going to take a true rest day and try the route fully rested. So psyched!!

Proper Soul, day 3

Started out the day by warming up at Summersville lake. Went down to Orange Oswald and climbed some of the classic 5.10 and 5.11's with a beautiful young lady. It was pretty busy being fourth of July weekend and all. However, we were able to climb what we wanted without having to wait in any lines. After warming up and basking in the sun i was starting to get a little antsy for Proper Soul. I Left around 4pm and got out to Endless around 5sih. The Sun Completely leaves the Cirque around 5:30 and things finally start to cool off a bit.

My first burn was good. I made it to my previous high point and fell exiting the dihedral again. However, i worked the sequence a little and figured out some really good foot beta for the move where i was falling. Feeling good about the new beta i lower from there in an attempt to save enough energy for one really good red-point burn.

My second burn i was noticeable more tired climbing through the dihedral. However, i was still able to try out the new foot beta which worked and felt pretty good. I was able to reach past my previous high point and grab the next hold which is a good flat jug. I fell adjusting on the jug when my foot slipped off. With the day winding down i got back on from there to try and one hang the route. I climbed from the middle of the dihedral to the last hard section a couple of holds from the chains. I felt really good about the new high point and was also able to learn a little bit about how i my body would feel on the top part of the route. With weather this good it has been hard to take full rest days. Today will be my six day of climbing in a row. None the less i am feeling good and plan on getting on it again this evening.

Proper Soul

For the past month or so I have been staying at a small campground located in the heart of the New River Gorge in West Virginia. The climbing in the Gorge can be very challenging with thought provoking movements up beautiful white and orange Nuttal Sandstone. Most of the areas I’ve climbed at around the US, take an average of two weeks to really start to feel good and comfortable on the rock. The New on the other hand has taken more like four or six weeks before I am finally starting to feel comfortable with some of the movements. I am sure the weather has played a huge role in this, with average temps soaring well into the 80’s. Take the heat and add in some tropical like humidity and well, conditions have been tough. With the manky conditions, I have really had to take my climbing down a couple of grades. That being said, I have gotten on some truly amazing rock climbs here at the New. The locals in town and staying at the campground are really friendly and have made me feel right at home. While climbing though out the gorge, I have been eyeing up some of the harder lines looking for a cool project to zone in on. Proper Soul 5.14a is a proud looking 100-foot line that climbs through a beautiful steep dihedral on it way to the top of the cirque at endless wall.

After sweating it out waiting for good conditions I finally decided to just get on it and see what it was all about. My first working burn up the route took about an hour. Conditions were not great, I got rained out of the first crag I went to and ended up at the cirque because it stays dry in the rain. Most of my time on the route was figuring how to get into and then back out of the crux dihedral. The other half of the route climbs through a couple of powerful and tricky traverses ending with a sure to be heartbreaking last couple of moves to the top. After my first burn, I was absolutely trashed. After not climbing that hard for a couple of weeks my body felt like it had been run over by a train. Anyway, I think I have found a pretty good project.

Day two on Proper Soul was really inspiring. I had a pretty good burn and fell leaving the dihedral. I was third day on, however conditions were way better for this go. Temps in the 70’s with humidity probably down around 60 to 70 percent. I was really psyched to get a high point on the route and also make it to the chains with only three hangs. Feeling good about the route at this point. Can’t wait for a rest day.

80 New Routes in 2010

1. Nomad 5.12c Obed, TN

2. Twisting in the Wind 5.12b/c Tennessee Wall, TN

3. Pod Right 5.13a, Little River Canyon, AL

4. Placebo 5.11c, Little River Canyon, AL

5. OutPatient 5.11d, Little River Canyon, AL

6. Bitless 5.11b, Little River Canyon, AL

7. Toomsooba 5.12a, Little River Canyon, AL

8. Hooligans 5.13b, Little River Canyon, AL

9. Whatserface 5.13a, Obed, TN

10. Trundlerama 5.11a, Obed, TN

11. Electric Rats 5.10c, Tennessee Wall, TN

12. Hungry For Heaven 5.10c, Tennessee Wall, TN

13. Rocktoberfest 5.11, Little River Canyon, AL

14. Dave's Corner 5.11b, Little River Canyon, AL

15. Silverback 5.13a, Little River Canyon, AL

16. Glow in the dark bambi 5.13b, Obed, TN

17. Mojasha 5.12c, Little River Canyon, AL

18. Dave's other corner 5.11, Little River Canyon, AL

19. Touch of Grey 5.11d, Little River Canyon, AL

20. 720 5.12c, Little River Canyon,AL

21. Cornerstone 5.12c, Obed, TN

22. Centerstone 5.13a, Obed, TN

23. Solitary Movement 5.13a, Obed, TN

24. Buster Brown 5.11c, Little River Canyon, AL

25. Wet Corner 5.11c, LRC, AL

26. Blocky Start 5.11b, LRC, AL

27. Silver Man 5.13b, LRC, AL

28. Man Show 5.13d, LRC, AL

29. Gray Pole 5.11d, LRC,AL

30. Monkey Tails 5.12c, LRC,AL

31. Taste the Rainbow 5.13a, RRG, KY

32. Omaha Beach 5.14a, RRG, KY

33. Name Dropper 5.13a, RRG, KY

34. Hog Wild 5.12d (FA 5/9/10), RRG, KY.

35. Easy Rider 5.13a. RRG, KY.

36. unknown 5.11d. RRG, KY

37. Unknown 5.12b. RRG, KY

38. Warm Up 5.11. NRG,WV

38. Finders Keepers 5.12c. NRG, WV

39. Sloth 5.12c. NRG,WV

40.Almost Heaven 5.10 NRG,WV

41. Betty Bravo 5.11c. NRG, WV

42. Fifty Year Storm 5.12b. NRG, WV

43. B.C. 5.13b/c. NRG,WV

44. Satisfaction Guaranteed 5.11a. NRG,WV

45. Narcissus 5.12a. NRG,WV

46. Handsome and Well Hung 5.11a. NRG,WV

47. Cool Corner 5.10c. NRG,WV

48. Desperately Seeking Susan 5.10a. NRG,WV

49. Broken Vowels 5.10a. NRG,WV

50. First Steps 5.10c. NRG,WV

51. Scenic Adult 5.11c. NRG,WV

52. Tony the Tiger 5.11c. NRG,WV

53. Bimbo Shrine 5.11b. NRG,WV

54. Slash and Burn 5.12d. NRG,WV

55. Corner Pocket 5.13a. NRG,WV

56. Bittersweet 5.13a. NRG,WV

57. Supultura 5.11d. NRG,WV

58. Marionette 5.11c. NRG,WV

59. Your Mother 5.9. NRG,WV

60. Jaws 5.9. NRG,WV

61. Flight of the Gumby 5.9. NRG,WV

62. Green Piece 5.10. NRG,WV

63. Low Voltage 5.10. NRG,WV

64. Sancho Belige 5.11c. NRG,WV

65. Lost Souls 5.12a. NRG,WV

66. Control 5.12a. NRG,WV

67. Bullet the New Sky 5.12a. NRG,WV

68. Aesthetica 5.11c. NRG,WV

69. Hundred Acre Wood 5.9. NRG,WV

70. New Yosemite 5.9. NRG,WV

71. Rapscallions Blues 5.10c. NRG,WV

72. The Entertainer 5.10a. NRG<,WV

73. Realignment 5.10d. NRG,WV

74. Stuck in Another Dimension 5.11a. NRG,WV

75. Fragile Ecosystems 5.10a NRG,WV

76. Wild Seed 5.11a. NRG,WV

77. Fly Girls 5.12a. NRG,WV

78. Glass Onion 5.10a. NRG,WV

79. Sugar Bubbas 5.11a. NRG,WV

80. The Gift of Grace 5.12b. NRG,WV

Bill and Audrey at Endless

New River Rendezvous recap

Arrived at the New River Gorge Friday afternoon and immediately drove to the Cirque at Endless Wall. Climbed the warm up 11a, Finders Keepers 12c, and Sloth 12c. Loved everything about the Cirque. The 10 minute approach is through old growth forest that really sets a cool mood. The routes at the Cirque climb brilliant orange rock that is highlighted with stripes of white and black. The moves on the routes are thought provoking and usually both powerful and slightly technical.

Saturday i decided to enter into the sport climbing comp. I entered last year and got third place which payed for the trip. Last year my strategy was to try routes around my onsite level hoping that the bonus points would make up for the difficulty. This year my goal was to try harder routes that i had previously sent.

goal tick list:

1. Tobacco Road 12b

2. Apollo Reed 13a

3. Mercy seat 13b

4. The Pod 13b

5. BC 13b/c

6. Vaseline vision 12b

7. Blood Raid 13a

8. Lactic Acid Bath 12d

9. Skull F?ck 12c

10. Yowsah 12b

Actual Tick List:

1. Apollo Reed ( had to warm up on it because tobacco was wet at 9am)

2. Mercy Seat ( took me 3 tries to realize my foot beta was bad.)

3. Tobacco Road ( Felt hard, after trying and falling off the Pod earlier.

4. Vaseline Vision ( So Pumped, and feeling the time ticking away)

5. tried all of the other 12lvs around the boulder and couldn't pull any of them off. Wow so pumped! Gotta run to get the card in.

I guess a lot of people didn't turn in score card because i ended up taking 2nd place with only four routes on my card. Trip paid!!

I really enjoyed this comp. I love getting in a zone and just trying really hard!

Two new lines for the Red!

I bolted two lines at the Red last week. The routes are gently overhanging at around 15-20 degrees and are about 50 - 70 feet long. The route in the center which goes at 5.12d has 6 bolts and two anchors. The route on the left (my current project) which probably goes at 5.13c has 7 bolts and two anchors. The routes aren't your typical endurance based Red River Gorge routes. Both routes have long powerful moves with a defined crux mid way up the wall.

There are currently 8 routes from 11d to 14? in various stages of development. Most of the lines will be 5.13 and up.

Bolting at the Red

Omaha Beach. Done!!!!

Photos: Mark Large

Man Show: Done!

Pictures by Mark A. Large

Man Show

So its been a while since i have updated. I am really psyched on sport climbing right now. It took one route to turn me from bouldering mode back into die hard sport climbing mode. The Man Show 5.13d at the Little River Canyon in Alabama was the route that did it. My typical style of climbing is slow and methodical constantly controlling the pump from the ground. Well..., I had to throw that style out for this route. The Man Show forces me to try really hard from the third bolt to the chains. The kind of try hard you just don't get from bouldering. I am screaming and flying around on most of the moves. I had a really good Flash attempt. James Webb gave me spot on beta for every move on the climb. Really impressive seeing that Jimmy probably hadn't been on the climb in over a year. Since my flash attempt, i have one hung it 4 or 5 times. This is sorta how it goes. Really steep climbing on decent holds through the first couple of bolts to reach the first crux. The first crux for me is a wild rip in which my feet feel like they flying behind my head. After controlling the swing, I paste a foot back on and make a reach to a good edge, slam a heel toe cam sneak a quick breath and clip. Then make a huge reach to a slopey pistol grip pinch and slowly move left hand to a one pad gaston. After grabbing the gaston i re-adjust the right pinch and throw up and left to a better edge. Quickly i match the edge with one finger and throw again right hand to a jug and rest. First and hardest crux down. After resting and trying to recompose I make seven tick tacky moves, that seem to zap any remaining core strength, and set up for the red point crux. The red point crux is a huge dead point up and right off a in-cut side-pull and good left foot. If it were on the ground it would probably be a V4 boulder problem. However, it is not on the ground and i have fallen here a hand full of times. I am heading back this weekend to give it one last go before heading north in search of cooler temps. Pictures to come soon!!

80 New Routes in 2010

1. Nomad 5.12c Obed, TN

2. Twisting in the Wind 5.12b/c Tennessee Wall, TN

3. Pod Right 5.13a, Little River Canyon, AL

4. Placebo 5.11c, Little River Canyon, AL

5. OutPatient 5.11d, Little River Canyon, AL

6. Bitless 5.11b, Little River Canyon, AL

7. Toomsooba 5.12a, Little River Canyon, AL

8. Hooligans 5.13b, Little River Canyon, AL

9. Whatserface 5.13a, Obed, TN

10. Trundlerama 5.11a, Obed, TN

11. Electric Rats 5.10c, Tennessee Wall, TN

12. Hungry For Heaven 5.10c, Tennessee Wall, TN

13. Rocktoberfest 5.11, Little River Canyon, AL

14. Dave's Corner 5.11b, Little River Canyon, AL

15. Silverback 5.13a, Little River Canyon, AL

16. Glow in the dark bambi 5.13b, Obed, TN

17. Mojasha 5.12c, Little River Canyon, AL

18. Dave's other corner 5.11, Little River Canyon, AL

19. Touch of Grey 5.11d, Little River Canyon, AL

20. 720 5.12c, Little River Canyon,AL

21. Cornerstone 5.12c, Obed, TN

22. Centerstone 5.13a, Obed, TN

23. Solitary Movement 5.13a, Obed, TN

24. Buster Brown 5.11c, Little River Canyon, AL

25. Wet Corner 5.11c, LRC, AL

26. Blocky Start 5.11b, LRC, AL

27. Silver Man 5.13b, LRC, AL

28. Man Show 5.13d, LRC, AL

29. Gray Pole 5.11d, LRC,AL

30. Monkey Tails 5.12c, LRC,AL

31. Taste the Rainbow 5.13a, RRG, KY

32. Omaha Beach 5.14a, RRG, KY

33. Name Dropper 5.13a, RRG, KY

34. Hog Wild 5.12d (FA 5/9/10), RRG, KY.

35. Easy Rider 5.13a. RRG, KY.

36. unknown 5.11d. RRG, KY

37. Unknown 5.12b. RRG, KY

38. Warm Up 5.11. NRG,WV

38. Finders Keepers 5.12c. NRG, WV

39. Sloth 5.12c. NRG,WV

40.Almost Heaven 5.10 NRG,WV

41. Betty Bravo 5.11c. NRG, WV

42. Fifty Year Storm 5.12b. NRG, WV

43. B.C. 5.13b/c. NRG,WV

44. Satisfaction Guaranteed 5.11a. NRG,WV

45. Narcissus 5.12a. NRG,WV

46. Handsome and Well Hung 5.11a. NRG,WV

.

..

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80.

New Goal for 2010

Free the Glass Menagerie 5.13a 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV, Looking Glass, NC

Description

This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar.

I have been on and aided the climb a couple of years ago. It took about 12 hours car to car. My plan for feeing it would take three to four days, or two weekends. The first two days, i would go up and figure out the crux pitches. The first crux pitch is Pitch 2: (5.12+ or C1) and the second and main crux is Pitch 4: (5.13 or C2). Day three rest, and day four go for the ground up send!

Cycling Journal

Ride Three, Farragut,TN. Partly cloudy with temps in the mid 50's. Casual solo ride.

Miles: 18

Ride Time: 1:03 minutes

Average speed: 17mph

Average Heart Rate: 155 bpm

Average Cadence: 84 rpm

Max speed: 35.1 mph

Max HR: 173 bpm

Max Cadence: 108 rpm

Calories Burnt: 501 kcal

80 New Routes in 2010

1. Nomad 5.12c Obed, TN

2. Twisting in the Wind 5.12b/c Tennessee Wall, TN

3. Pod Right 5.13a, Little River Canyon, AL

4. Placebo 5.11c, Little River Canyon, AL

5. OutPatient 5.11d, Little River Canyon, AL

6. Bitless 5.11b, Little River Canyon, AL

7. Toomsooba 5.12a, Little River Canyon, AL

8. Hooligans 5.13b, Little River Canyon, AL

9. Whatserface 5.13a, Obed, TN

10. Trundlerama 5.11a, Obed, TN

11.

.

..

...

80.

T-Wall and LRC

Went out to the Tennessee wall Wednesday to plug some gear and take a look at some of the sport climbing routes. Felt good to mix it up and climb on some cracks.

The Sport climbing looks amazing! Steep and interesting climbing on brilliant orange rock. Really psyched to get back up there and try some more lines!!

Thursday Matt, Richard, and I went out to LRC to enjoy the perfect weather!! Low 50's with sun all day! Felt a little rough after pulling something in my back warming up. UGG. However, was still able to climb and enjoy the weather.

Weekend update

Saturday was probably the best weather the Chattanooga area has seen in a while. Temps in the low 50's with the sun shinning all day. LRC was a packed house with climber and parking slots filled. It was great to see everyone out! Pads everywhere!! Got on and sent a classic semi high ball problem called Kaya. So psyched to have 10 - 15 pads under me for this one. Was also able to send one of my nemesis called Instinct. I have probable tried the problem which is well within my limits something like 50 times. Changed my foot beta from a heel hook to just toeing down and sent second try with the new beta.

Sunday the weather man lied. Temps couldn't of gotten above 4o degrees and the sun was no where to be found. The weather along with the full day Saturday made warming up pretty slow and tough. After warming up we went over a tried a classic problem called Space. Space is a blunt arete slab that requires some technical smearing along with some burly compression moves. We also checked out the problems Now and Zen, Midway, shotgun, Cleopatra, The Pinch, Diesel Power, and The Tooth Fairy. No new send today. Planning on resting the next couple of days to heal up my skin.

Cycling Journal

Ride Two: Maryville,TN A little on the cold side. 40 degrees and overcast out with a brutal head wind for the finial 12 miles. Fell off the pack on the last couple of miles. Felt a little better than last ride. Just don't have the legs back yet. However, I feel pretty good with my heart rate progress. Heart rate recovery still feels like it is taking forever though. Overall, I think everyone was hurting on this one.

Miles: 31

Ride Time: 1:40 minutes

Average speed: 18.5mph

Average Heart Rate: 151 bpm

Average Cadence: 80 rpm

Max speed: 35.3 mph

Max HR: 184 bpm

Max Cadence: 151 rpm

Calories Burnt: 789 kcal

Week Upadate

Went out to Little Rock City Saturday. It sure was nice to climb in the sun with good temps. Here are a couple of pictures that Mark Large took.

Also made it out to Rocktown on sunday with Mark and Jim Patton. Felt some good progression on a couple of projects and was quikly able to dispatch a boulder problem called Tractor Trailer (pictured below in black and white)

Working the Helicopter Traverse

Knoxville Upcoming climbing events

2. University of Tennessee All Access Weekend including the Vol Wall Bouldering Competition
Date : February 28
Time : Sign Up 10:30 – 11:30 am Comp 12 – 6 pm
Location : HYPER building on the University of Tennessee Campus
Cost : $15 (all proceeds go to the Access Fund and the ETCC)

3. Red River Gorge Reunion including Torrent Falls Sport Climbing Competition
Date : April 18
Time : 10:00 am
Location : Torrent Falls (sign ups at Miguel's)
Cost : TBD

4. New River Rendezvous aka Ocho Loco

Date : May 14-16th

Location : New River Gorge (Burnwood Facility NPS)

Cost :$25-50 before April 15th

Goals / Training Plan For Spring

1) Goals

a) Build a Stronger Base/Onsite 8a

b) Omaha Beach, RRG. worked on it a lot last Fall.

c) Climb 80 new routes. NRG,Rifle,RRG, and T-Wall

d) Bolt a new climb this year. RRG

2) Training

a) Nutrition

1) More protein rich diet this spring(protein shakes after sessions)

2) Continue eating well (organic, Super foods)

b) Fitness

1) Strengths

a) Endurance

1) Continue climbing at the RED!!

2) Cycling( 4 hours a week)

b) Recovery

1) Cycling(one group ride a week)

2) Breathing techniques (warming up/relaxing at rests and while climbing)

c) Heart

1) Try really hard on routes

2) Do as many routes as possible (10 pitches a day)

2) Weaknesses

a) Finger Strength

2) Bouldering all winter(South)

3) One Campus session a week(on weeks the weather is bad)

b) Power

1) Bouldering all winter (South)

2) Climb powerful routes (NRG)

c) Flexibility

1) Stretch for 60 minutes a week

d) Core Strength

1) Climb more powerful steep routes(roofs/caves)

2) Body weight lever/Planche progressions

a) Omaha Beach training

1) Don't get sucked in

2) Climb lots of routes(climb B.O.H.IC.A., Flour Power, 40oz, and Madness in a day)

3) Climb UltraPerm (RRG)

Hueco Tanks 2010