Wednesday, October 14, 2009


Urban Rock Gym: Huge Demo Day!

Rock/Creek has teamed up again with some of the best climbing gear manufacturers to offer a night of free climbing and a chance to try out some of the hottest new gear. This is the second gear demo that Urban Rocks has hosted and it is going to be bigger and better than the last with Petzl, Metolius, Sterling, Evolv, La Sportiva, Bluewater and Five Ten all offering products to test out on Urban Rocks climbing walls. Don't miss out on a night of great climbing and a chance to try some of the best climbing products out there.
November 11th 5pm-9pm.
first 50 people get in free.


Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Lilly Bouldering Competition

Date: Saturday, November 14, 2009
Time: 10:00am - 3:00pm
Location: Obed wild and scenic river

Prizes awarded to top two competitors in each category. The following have men and women divisions: Open (V9-Sick) Advanced (V6 - V8) Intermediate (V3 - V5) The following categories are Unisex: Ancient Hard Person (40+) Junior (13 -) On site registration beginning Friday November 13, 7PM. Great sponsors, activities and venue!


Wednesday, October 7, 2009



Working moves on Omaha Beach 8b+, Red River Gorge.




Photos by Mark A. Large

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Roctoberfest!!!!!!

October 9th-11th


outdoor climbing comp
clinics for all levels
great food
Dyno Comp
DJ
Movies


Monday, August 24, 2009

Millenium 8b+

Monday, August 10, 2009

Thursday, August 6, 2009



photos: Carter Stritch

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Headed for Maple baby!

Ok, Rifle was amazingly powerful with some super fun climbing in-there.  Can't wait to come back and try some harder lines on the Bauhuas or project wall.  Anyway, getting psyched on some more familiar endurance lines on cobbles.  Should be rollin in later tonight.   Get some!

Monday, July 13, 2009

Mighty Hunter

Rifle's campground is infested with mice. 

Current Mighty Hunter #s  

totally killed                        18  
most killed with one trap  2
gotten away        2

Rifle Limestone, What!



So good to be out west.  Cool mountain temperatures in the mornings and evenings.  Practically no humidity, if only the rock had any texture left on it there would be some serious pullin going on.  The slick limestone has definitely taken awhile to get used to, however the climbing hear is rad.  Nothing like i have ever experienced. I have totally fallen in love with the Anti-Phil wall. It's gently overhanging at 5-10 degrees with some seriously techy movements.  Refreshingly deferent than the steep jug hauls I'm used to.  
    

Monday, May 18, 2009

New River Rendezvous

Just got back from Fayetteville, WV and the New River Rendezvous.  Fayetteville seemed like a really cool place to live, maybe it was just because there were hundreds of climbers all over the place i don't no.  It has a cool scene and an overall good vibe as well as some great restaurants Cathedral Cafe and Pies and Pints both of which are five star in my book.  

Climbing wise i went to Upper Meadow River Saturday.  The rock quality at the Meadow River is top of the line.  It reminded me a lot of the OBED Wild and Scenic River Gorge in Tennessee but better.  Bullet hard sandstone that felt more like granite.  

I got to climb with some super motivated Knoxville climbers as we were all competing in the competition.  I flashed just about all the routes i got on.  It was amazing, there is nothing like hitting up a new area, and climbing as many new routes as possible.  By the end of the day i was at full body fatigue and after two days of rest i still can't use my left hand. Can't wait to get back up to the New.  Super psyched for some onsite and flash climbing.

Comp results:    Knoxville wins

Women Advanced 
1, Jessica Brackett, Knoxville
2, Karisa Dunbar,   Knoxville
3, ?????

Men Advanced
1, Peter Kamitses, Vermont
2, David Gibbons, Local
3, Brent Perkins, Knoxville

Friday, May 15, 2009

The New (round one)

  Just arrived at the New after a long week building a baby climbing wall(1200 sqft) for the Rush Fitness Center in Asheville,NC.  I had planned on this being a rest week in preparation for the New River Rendezvous. However, i forgot how hard working actually was.  I am sore as all get out.   Can't wait to get on some of these routes,  i was here once about four or five years ago and thought the climbing was amazing.  I am planning on climbing in the competition tomorrow, I am pretty physiqued about getting some real mileage in on new routes with some motivated friends.



Friday, May 8, 2009

Omaha Beach



Over the past couple of weeks, i've been working a climb in the Madness Cave called "Omaha Beach."  The Climb start off with a nice little boulder problem followed by some casual climbing into a no hands rest gained by doing a cool slopey traverse.  Get it all back at the rest and flow through the first three bolts doing some tension climbing on good ledges.  After clipping the third, hard more sustained bouldery movements lead to what is supposed to be "a good rest" from which you clip the next bolt.  Well i have yet to climb more than a move into the harder, sustained bouldery section, and have a hard time clipping the next bolt, and have no idea how i am going to get a shake off those holds.  However, trying to stay positive and i am psyched to have the fluff (first three bolts in the roof) dialed.  Psyched to get back on this weekend.


More to come.....


New River Rendezvous is coming soon.

Thursday, April 30, 2009

The Dark Side

Heading back up to the Red for a little while.  Got pretty worn down over the past couple of months trying some really hard and skin intensive routes.  I think this time around i'm going to take it sorta easy and get on some of the back burner routes.  Really psyched to get back on "The Return of Darth Mal", which is quickly becoming on of my favorite routes at the Red.  It pushes me really hard, feel like i could fall on any move, grunting all the way to the chains. 



Wednesday, April 15, 2009

Spring at the Red!

Over the last month or so I've been staying Lago Linda's and climbing at the Red.  After a long, cold, and wet winter I figured i needed about four or five weeks to get back into shape.  Finally, after last weekend and getting super physiqued at the Red River Reunion I sent one of the numerous projects I've been working.   hep heee!   Super motivated, i can't wait for the weather to turn and start crushing again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aey8hUvFM8c