80 New Routes in 2010

1. Nomad 5.12c Obed, TN

2. Twisting in the Wind 5.12b/c Tennessee Wall, TN

3. Pod Right 5.13a, Little River Canyon, AL

4. Placebo 5.11c, Little River Canyon, AL

5. OutPatient 5.11d, Little River Canyon, AL

6. Bitless 5.11b, Little River Canyon, AL

7. Toomsooba 5.12a, Little River Canyon, AL

8. Hooligans 5.13b, Little River Canyon, AL

9. Whatserface 5.13a, Obed, TN

10. Trundlerama 5.11a, Obed, TN

11. Electric Rats 5.10c, Tennessee Wall, TN

12. Hungry For Heaven 5.10c, Tennessee Wall, TN

13. Rocktoberfest 5.11, Little River Canyon, AL

14. Dave's Corner 5.11b, Little River Canyon, AL

15. Silverback 5.13a, Little River Canyon, AL

16. Glow in the dark bambi 5.13b, Obed, TN

17. Mojasha 5.12c, Little River Canyon, AL

18. Dave's other corner 5.11, Little River Canyon, AL

19. Touch of Grey 5.11d, Little River Canyon, AL

20. 720 5.12c, Little River Canyon,AL

21. Cornerstone 5.12c, Obed, TN

22. Centerstone 5.13a, Obed, TN

23. Solitary Movement 5.13a, Obed, TN

24. Buster Brown 5.11c, Little River Canyon, AL

25. Wet Corner 5.11c, LRC, AL

26. Blocky Start 5.11b, LRC, AL

27. Silver Man 5.13b, LRC, AL

28. Man Show 5.13d, LRC, AL

29. Gray Pole 5.11d, LRC,AL

30. Monkey Tails 5.12c, LRC,AL

31. Taste the Rainbow 5.13a, RRG, KY

32. Omaha Beach 5.14a, RRG, KY

33. Name Dropper 5.13a, RRG, KY

34. Hog Wild 5.12d (FA 5/9/10), RRG, KY.

35. Easy Rider 5.13a. RRG, KY.

36. unknown 5.11d. RRG, KY

37. Unknown 5.12b. RRG, KY

38. Warm Up 5.11. NRG,WV

38. Finders Keepers 5.12c. NRG, WV

39. Sloth 5.12c. NRG,WV

40.Almost Heaven 5.10 NRG,WV

41. Betty Bravo 5.11c. NRG, WV

42. Fifty Year Storm 5.12b. NRG, WV

43. B.C. 5.13b/c. NRG,WV

44. Satisfaction Guaranteed 5.11a. NRG,WV

45. Narcissus 5.12a. NRG,WV

46. Handsome and Well Hung 5.11a. NRG,WV

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80.

New Goal for 2010

Free the Glass Menagerie 5.13a 7 pitches, 900 feet, Grade IV, Looking Glass, NC

Description

This is the finest multipitch free-climb of its grade in the Southeast. If you want sustained climbing with big air and on perfect granite, this is the route for you. The Glass Menagerie is the obvious overhanging line up the center of the North Face of Looking Glass. It is equally good as an aid climb, as it is a free climb. Its cruxes are well protected and the rock is almost always stellar.

I have been on and aided the climb a couple of years ago. It took about 12 hours car to car. My plan for feeing it would take three to four days, or two weekends. The first two days, i would go up and figure out the crux pitches. The first crux pitch is Pitch 2: (5.12+ or C1) and the second and main crux is Pitch 4: (5.13 or C2). Day three rest, and day four go for the ground up send!

Cycling Journal

Ride Three, Farragut,TN. Partly cloudy with temps in the mid 50's. Casual solo ride.

Miles: 18

Ride Time: 1:03 minutes

Average speed: 17mph

Average Heart Rate: 155 bpm

Average Cadence: 84 rpm

Max speed: 35.1 mph

Max HR: 173 bpm

Max Cadence: 108 rpm

Calories Burnt: 501 kcal

80 New Routes in 2010

1. Nomad 5.12c Obed, TN

2. Twisting in the Wind 5.12b/c Tennessee Wall, TN

3. Pod Right 5.13a, Little River Canyon, AL

4. Placebo 5.11c, Little River Canyon, AL

5. OutPatient 5.11d, Little River Canyon, AL

6. Bitless 5.11b, Little River Canyon, AL

7. Toomsooba 5.12a, Little River Canyon, AL

8. Hooligans 5.13b, Little River Canyon, AL

9. Whatserface 5.13a, Obed, TN

10. Trundlerama 5.11a, Obed, TN

11.

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80.

T-Wall and LRC

Went out to the Tennessee wall Wednesday to plug some gear and take a look at some of the sport climbing routes. Felt good to mix it up and climb on some cracks.

The Sport climbing looks amazing! Steep and interesting climbing on brilliant orange rock. Really psyched to get back up there and try some more lines!!

Thursday Matt, Richard, and I went out to LRC to enjoy the perfect weather!! Low 50's with sun all day! Felt a little rough after pulling something in my back warming up. UGG. However, was still able to climb and enjoy the weather.

Weekend update

Saturday was probably the best weather the Chattanooga area has seen in a while. Temps in the low 50's with the sun shinning all day. LRC was a packed house with climber and parking slots filled. It was great to see everyone out! Pads everywhere!! Got on and sent a classic semi high ball problem called Kaya. So psyched to have 10 - 15 pads under me for this one. Was also able to send one of my nemesis called Instinct. I have probable tried the problem which is well within my limits something like 50 times. Changed my foot beta from a heel hook to just toeing down and sent second try with the new beta.

Sunday the weather man lied. Temps couldn't of gotten above 4o degrees and the sun was no where to be found. The weather along with the full day Saturday made warming up pretty slow and tough. After warming up we went over a tried a classic problem called Space. Space is a blunt arete slab that requires some technical smearing along with some burly compression moves. We also checked out the problems Now and Zen, Midway, shotgun, Cleopatra, The Pinch, Diesel Power, and The Tooth Fairy. No new send today. Planning on resting the next couple of days to heal up my skin.

Cycling Journal

Ride Two: Maryville,TN A little on the cold side. 40 degrees and overcast out with a brutal head wind for the finial 12 miles. Fell off the pack on the last couple of miles. Felt a little better than last ride. Just don't have the legs back yet. However, I feel pretty good with my heart rate progress. Heart rate recovery still feels like it is taking forever though. Overall, I think everyone was hurting on this one.

Miles: 31

Ride Time: 1:40 minutes

Average speed: 18.5mph

Average Heart Rate: 151 bpm

Average Cadence: 80 rpm

Max speed: 35.3 mph

Max HR: 184 bpm

Max Cadence: 151 rpm

Calories Burnt: 789 kcal