Omaha Beach. Done!!!!

Photos: Mark Large

Man Show: Done!

Pictures by Mark A. Large

Man Show

So its been a while since i have updated. I am really psyched on sport climbing right now. It took one route to turn me from bouldering mode back into die hard sport climbing mode. The Man Show 5.13d at the Little River Canyon in Alabama was the route that did it. My typical style of climbing is slow and methodical constantly controlling the pump from the ground. Well..., I had to throw that style out for this route. The Man Show forces me to try really hard from the third bolt to the chains. The kind of try hard you just don't get from bouldering. I am screaming and flying around on most of the moves. I had a really good Flash attempt. James Webb gave me spot on beta for every move on the climb. Really impressive seeing that Jimmy probably hadn't been on the climb in over a year. Since my flash attempt, i have one hung it 4 or 5 times. This is sorta how it goes. Really steep climbing on decent holds through the first couple of bolts to reach the first crux. The first crux for me is a wild rip in which my feet feel like they flying behind my head. After controlling the swing, I paste a foot back on and make a reach to a good edge, slam a heel toe cam sneak a quick breath and clip. Then make a huge reach to a slopey pistol grip pinch and slowly move left hand to a one pad gaston. After grabbing the gaston i re-adjust the right pinch and throw up and left to a better edge. Quickly i match the edge with one finger and throw again right hand to a jug and rest. First and hardest crux down. After resting and trying to recompose I make seven tick tacky moves, that seem to zap any remaining core strength, and set up for the red point crux. The red point crux is a huge dead point up and right off a in-cut side-pull and good left foot. If it were on the ground it would probably be a V4 boulder problem. However, it is not on the ground and i have fallen here a hand full of times. I am heading back this weekend to give it one last go before heading north in search of cooler temps. Pictures to come soon!!