New River Rendezvous

Just got back from Fayetteville, WV and the New River Rendezvous.  Fayetteville seemed like a really cool place to live, maybe it was just because there were hundreds of climbers all over the place i don't no.  It has a cool scene and an overall good vibe as well as some great restaurants Cathedral Cafe and Pies and Pints both of which are five star in my book.  

Climbing wise i went to Upper Meadow River Saturday.  The rock quality at the Meadow River is top of the line.  It reminded me a lot of the OBED Wild and Scenic River Gorge in Tennessee but better.  Bullet hard sandstone that felt more like granite.  

I got to climb with some super motivated Knoxville climbers as we were all competing in the competition.  I flashed just about all the routes i got on.  It was amazing, there is nothing like hitting up a new area, and climbing as many new routes as possible.  By the end of the day i was at full body fatigue and after two days of rest i still can't use my left hand. Can't wait to get back up to the New.  Super psyched for some onsite and flash climbing.

Comp results:    Knoxville wins

Women Advanced 

1, Jessica Brackett, Knoxville

2, Karisa Dunbar,   Knoxville

3, ?????

Men Advanced

1, Peter Kamitses, Vermont

2, David Gibbons, Local

3, Brent Perkins, Knoxville

The New (round one)

  Just arrived at the New after a long week building a baby climbing wall(1200 sqft) for the Rush Fitness Center in Asheville,NC.  I had planned on this being a rest week in preparation for the New River Rendezvous. However, i forgot how hard working actually was.  I am sore as all get out.   Can't wait to get on some of these routes,  i was here once about four or five years ago and thought the climbing was amazing.  I am planning on climbing in the competition tomorrow, I am pretty physiqued about getting some real mileage in on new routes with some motivated friends.

Omaha Beach

Over the past couple of weeks, i've been working a climb in the Madness Cave called "Omaha Beach."  The Climb start off with a nice little boulder problem followed by some casual climbing into a no hands rest gained by doing a cool slopey traverse.  Get it all back at the rest and flow through the first three bolts doing some tension climbing on good ledges.  After clipping the third, hard more sustained bouldery movements lead to what is supposed to be "a good rest" from which you clip the next bolt.  Well i have yet to climb more than a move into the harder, sustained bouldery section, and have a hard time clipping the next bolt, and have no idea how i am going to get a shake off those holds.  However, trying to stay positive and i am psyched to have the fluff (first three bolts in the roof) dialed.  Psyched to get back on this weekend.

More to come.....

New River Rendezvous is coming soon.