80 New Routes in 2010

1. Nomad 5.12c Obed, TN

2. Twisting in the Wind 5.12b/c Tennessee Wall, TN

3. Pod Right 5.13a, Little River Canyon, AL

4. Placebo 5.11c, Little River Canyon, AL

5. OutPatient 5.11d, Little River Canyon, AL

6. Bitless 5.11b, Little River Canyon, AL

7. Toomsooba 5.12a, Little River Canyon, AL

8. Hooligans 5.13b, Little River Canyon, AL

9. Whatserface 5.13a, Obed, TN

10. Trundlerama 5.11a, Obed, TN

11. Electric Rats 5.10c, Tennessee Wall, TN

12. Hungry For Heaven 5.10c, Tennessee Wall, TN

13. Rocktoberfest 5.11, Little River Canyon, AL

14. Dave's Corner 5.11b, Little River Canyon, AL

15. Silverback 5.13a, Little River Canyon, AL

16. Glow in the dark bambi 5.13b, Obed, TN

17. Mojasha 5.12c, Little River Canyon, AL

18. Dave's other corner 5.11, Little River Canyon, AL

19. Touch of Grey 5.11d, Little River Canyon, AL

20. 720 5.12c, Little River Canyon,AL

21. Cornerstone 5.12c, Obed, TN

22. Centerstone 5.13a, Obed, TN

23. Solitary Movement 5.13a, Obed, TN

24. Buster Brown 5.11c, Little River Canyon, AL

25. Wet Corner 5.11c, LRC, AL

26. Blocky Start 5.11b, LRC, AL

27. Silver Man 5.13b, LRC, AL

28. Man Show 5.13d, LRC, AL

29. Gray Pole 5.11d, LRC,AL

30. Monkey Tails 5.12c, LRC,AL

31. Taste the Rainbow 5.13a, RRG, KY

32. Omaha Beach 5.14a, RRG, KY

33. Name Dropper 5.13a, RRG, KY

34. Hog Wild 5.12d (FA 5/9/10), RRG, KY.

35. Easy Rider 5.13a. RRG, KY.

36. unknown 5.11d. RRG, KY

37. Unknown 5.12b. RRG, KY

38. Warm Up 5.11. NRG,WV

38. Finders Keepers 5.12c. NRG, WV

39. Sloth 5.12c. NRG,WV

40.Almost Heaven 5.10 NRG,WV

41. Betty Bravo 5.11c. NRG, WV

42. Fifty Year Storm 5.12b. NRG, WV

43. B.C. 5.13b/c. NRG,WV

44. Satisfaction Guaranteed 5.11a. NRG,WV

45. Narcissus 5.12a. NRG,WV

46. Handsome and Well Hung 5.11a. NRG,WV

47. Cool Corner 5.10c. NRG,WV

48. Desperately Seeking Susan 5.10a. NRG,WV

49. Broken Vowels 5.10a. NRG,WV

50. First Steps 5.10c. NRG,WV

51. Scenic Adult 5.11c. NRG,WV

52. Tony the Tiger 5.11c. NRG,WV

53. Bimbo Shrine 5.11b. NRG,WV

54. Slash and Burn 5.12d. NRG,WV

55. Corner Pocket 5.13a. NRG,WV

56. Bittersweet 5.13a. NRG,WV

57. Supultura 5.11d. NRG,WV

58. Marionette 5.11c. NRG,WV

59. Your Mother 5.9. NRG,WV

60. Jaws 5.9. NRG,WV

61. Flight of the Gumby 5.9. NRG,WV

62. Green Piece 5.10. NRG,WV

63. Low Voltage 5.10. NRG,WV

64. Sancho Belige 5.11c. NRG,WV

65. Lost Souls 5.12a. NRG,WV

66. Control 5.12a. NRG,WV

67. Bullet the New Sky 5.12a. NRG,WV

68. Aesthetica 5.11c. NRG,WV

69. Hundred Acre Wood 5.9. NRG,WV

70. New Yosemite 5.9. NRG,WV

71. Rapscallions Blues 5.10c. NRG,WV

72. The Entertainer 5.10a. NRG<,WV

73. Realignment 5.10d. NRG,WV

74. Stuck in Another Dimension 5.11a. NRG,WV

75. Fragile Ecosystems 5.10a NRG,WV

76. Wild Seed 5.11a. NRG,WV

77. Fly Girls 5.12a. NRG,WV

78. Glass Onion 5.10a. NRG,WV

79. Sugar Bubbas 5.11a. NRG,WV

80. The Gift of Grace 5.12b. NRG,WV

Bill and Audrey at Endless

New River Rendezvous recap

Arrived at the New River Gorge Friday afternoon and immediately drove to the Cirque at Endless Wall. Climbed the warm up 11a, Finders Keepers 12c, and Sloth 12c. Loved everything about the Cirque. The 10 minute approach is through old growth forest that really sets a cool mood. The routes at the Cirque climb brilliant orange rock that is highlighted with stripes of white and black. The moves on the routes are thought provoking and usually both powerful and slightly technical.

Saturday i decided to enter into the sport climbing comp. I entered last year and got third place which payed for the trip. Last year my strategy was to try routes around my onsite level hoping that the bonus points would make up for the difficulty. This year my goal was to try harder routes that i had previously sent.

goal tick list:

1. Tobacco Road 12b

2. Apollo Reed 13a

3. Mercy seat 13b

4. The Pod 13b

5. BC 13b/c

6. Vaseline vision 12b

7. Blood Raid 13a

8. Lactic Acid Bath 12d

9. Skull F?ck 12c

10. Yowsah 12b

Actual Tick List:

1. Apollo Reed ( had to warm up on it because tobacco was wet at 9am)

2. Mercy Seat ( took me 3 tries to realize my foot beta was bad.)

3. Tobacco Road ( Felt hard, after trying and falling off the Pod earlier.

4. Vaseline Vision ( So Pumped, and feeling the time ticking away)

5. tried all of the other 12lvs around the boulder and couldn't pull any of them off. Wow so pumped! Gotta run to get the card in.

I guess a lot of people didn't turn in score card because i ended up taking 2nd place with only four routes on my card. Trip paid!!

I really enjoyed this comp. I love getting in a zone and just trying really hard!

Two new lines for the Red!

I bolted two lines at the Red last week. The routes are gently overhanging at around 15-20 degrees and are about 50 - 70 feet long. The route in the center which goes at 5.12d has 6 bolts and two anchors. The route on the left (my current project) which probably goes at 5.13c has 7 bolts and two anchors. The routes aren't your typical endurance based Red River Gorge routes. Both routes have long powerful moves with a defined crux mid way up the wall.

There are currently 8 routes from 11d to 14? in various stages of development. Most of the lines will be 5.13 and up.

Bolting at the Red

Omaha Beach. Done!!!!

Photos: Mark Large

Man Show: Done!

Pictures by Mark A. Large