80 New Routes in 2010

1. Nomad 5.12c Obed, TN

2. Twisting in the Wind 5.12b/c Tennessee Wall, TN

3. Pod Right 5.13a, Little River Canyon, AL

4. Placebo 5.11c, Little River Canyon, AL

5. OutPatient 5.11d, Little River Canyon, AL

6. Bitless 5.11b, Little River Canyon, AL

7. Toomsooba 5.12a, Little River Canyon, AL

8. Hooligans 5.13b, Little River Canyon, AL

9. Whatserface 5.13a, Obed, TN

10. Trundlerama 5.11a, Obed, TN

11.

.

..

...

80.

T-Wall and LRC

Went out to the Tennessee wall Wednesday to plug some gear and take a look at some of the sport climbing routes. Felt good to mix it up and climb on some cracks.

The Sport climbing looks amazing! Steep and interesting climbing on brilliant orange rock. Really psyched to get back up there and try some more lines!!

Thursday Matt, Richard, and I went out to LRC to enjoy the perfect weather!! Low 50's with sun all day! Felt a little rough after pulling something in my back warming up. UGG. However, was still able to climb and enjoy the weather.

Weekend update

Saturday was probably the best weather the Chattanooga area has seen in a while. Temps in the low 50's with the sun shinning all day. LRC was a packed house with climber and parking slots filled. It was great to see everyone out! Pads everywhere!! Got on and sent a classic semi high ball problem called Kaya. So psyched to have 10 - 15 pads under me for this one. Was also able to send one of my nemesis called Instinct. I have probable tried the problem which is well within my limits something like 50 times. Changed my foot beta from a heel hook to just toeing down and sent second try with the new beta.

Sunday the weather man lied. Temps couldn't of gotten above 4o degrees and the sun was no where to be found. The weather along with the full day Saturday made warming up pretty slow and tough. After warming up we went over a tried a classic problem called Space. Space is a blunt arete slab that requires some technical smearing along with some burly compression moves. We also checked out the problems Now and Zen, Midway, shotgun, Cleopatra, The Pinch, Diesel Power, and The Tooth Fairy. No new send today. Planning on resting the next couple of days to heal up my skin.

Cycling Journal

Ride Two: Maryville,TN A little on the cold side. 40 degrees and overcast out with a brutal head wind for the finial 12 miles. Fell off the pack on the last couple of miles. Felt a little better than last ride. Just don't have the legs back yet. However, I feel pretty good with my heart rate progress. Heart rate recovery still feels like it is taking forever though. Overall, I think everyone was hurting on this one.

Miles: 31

Ride Time: 1:40 minutes

Average speed: 18.5mph

Average Heart Rate: 151 bpm

Average Cadence: 80 rpm

Max speed: 35.3 mph

Max HR: 184 bpm

Max Cadence: 151 rpm

Calories Burnt: 789 kcal

Week Upadate

Went out to Little Rock City Saturday. It sure was nice to climb in the sun with good temps. Here are a couple of pictures that Mark Large took.

Also made it out to Rocktown on sunday with Mark and Jim Patton. Felt some good progression on a couple of projects and was quikly able to dispatch a boulder problem called Tractor Trailer (pictured below in black and white)

Working the Helicopter Traverse

Knoxville Upcoming climbing events

2. University of Tennessee All Access Weekend including the Vol Wall Bouldering Competition
Date : February 28
Time : Sign Up 10:30 – 11:30 am Comp 12 – 6 pm
Location : HYPER building on the University of Tennessee Campus
Cost : $15 (all proceeds go to the Access Fund and the ETCC)

3. Red River Gorge Reunion including Torrent Falls Sport Climbing Competition
Date : April 18
Time : 10:00 am
Location : Torrent Falls (sign ups at Miguel's)
Cost : TBD

4. New River Rendezvous aka Ocho Loco

Date : May 14-16th

Location : New River Gorge (Burnwood Facility NPS)

Cost :$25-50 before April 15th

Goals / Training Plan For Spring

1) Goals

a) Build a Stronger Base/Onsite 8a

b) Omaha Beach, RRG. worked on it a lot last Fall.

c) Climb 80 new routes. NRG,Rifle,RRG, and T-Wall

d) Bolt a new climb this year. RRG

2) Training

a) Nutrition

1) More protein rich diet this spring(protein shakes after sessions)

2) Continue eating well (organic, Super foods)

b) Fitness

1) Strengths

a) Endurance

1) Continue climbing at the RED!!

2) Cycling( 4 hours a week)

b) Recovery

1) Cycling(one group ride a week)

2) Breathing techniques (warming up/relaxing at rests and while climbing)

c) Heart

1) Try really hard on routes

2) Do as many routes as possible (10 pitches a day)

2) Weaknesses

a) Finger Strength

2) Bouldering all winter(South)

3) One Campus session a week(on weeks the weather is bad)

b) Power

1) Bouldering all winter (South)

2) Climb powerful routes (NRG)

c) Flexibility

1) Stretch for 60 minutes a week

d) Core Strength

1) Climb more powerful steep routes(roofs/caves)

2) Body weight lever/Planche progressions

a) Omaha Beach training

1) Don't get sucked in

2) Climb lots of routes(climb B.O.H.IC.A., Flour Power, 40oz, and Madness in a day)

3) Climb UltraPerm (RRG)