Tuesday, February 23, 2010

Knoxville Upcoming climbing events

2. University of Tennessee All Access Weekend including the Vol Wall Bouldering Competition
Date : February 28
Time : Sign Up 10:30 – 11:30 am Comp 12 – 6 pm
Location : HYPER building on the University of Tennessee Campus
Cost : $15 (all proceeds go to the Access Fund and the ETCC)

3. Red River Gorge Reunion including Torrent Falls Sport Climbing Competition
Date : April 18
Time : 10:00 am
Location : Torrent Falls (sign ups at Miguel's)
Cost : TBD

Date : May 14-16th
Location : New River Gorge (Burnwood Facility NPS)
Cost :$25-50 before April 15th

Goals / Training Plan For Spring

1) Goals
a) Build a Stronger Base/Onsite 8a
b) Omaha Beach, RRG. worked on it a lot last Fall.
c) Climb 80 new routes. NRG,Rifle,RRG, and T-Wall
d) Bolt a new climb this year. RRG

2) Training
a) Nutrition
1) More protein rich diet this spring(protein shakes after sessions)
2) Continue eating well (organic, Super foods)
b) Fitness
1) Strengths
a) Endurance
1) Continue climbing at the RED!!
2) Cycling( 4 hours a week)
b) Recovery
1) Cycling(one group ride a week)
2) Breathing techniques (warming up/relaxing at rests and while climbing)
c) Heart
1) Try really hard on routes
2) Do as many routes as possible (10 pitches a day)
2) Weaknesses
a) Finger Strength
2) Bouldering all winter(South)
3) One Campus session a week(on weeks the weather is bad)
b) Power
1) Bouldering all winter (South)
2) Climb powerful routes (NRG)
c) Flexibility
1) Stretch for 60 minutes a week
d) Core Strength
1) Climb more powerful steep routes(roofs/caves)
2) Body weight lever/Planche progressions
a) Omaha Beach training
1) Don't get sucked in
2) Climb lots of routes(climb B.O.H.IC.A., Flour Power, 40oz, and Madness in a day)
3) Climb UltraPerm (RRG)

Wednesday, October 14, 2009


Urban Rock Gym: Huge Demo Day!

Rock/Creek has teamed up again with some of the best climbing gear manufacturers to offer a night of free climbing and a chance to try out some of the hottest new gear. This is the second gear demo that Urban Rocks has hosted and it is going to be bigger and better than the last with Petzl, Metolius, Sterling, Evolv, La Sportiva, Bluewater and Five Ten all offering products to test out on Urban Rocks climbing walls. Don't miss out on a night of great climbing and a chance to try some of the best climbing products out there.
November 11th 5pm-9pm.
first 50 people get in free.


Tuesday, October 13, 2009

Lilly Bouldering Competition

Date: Saturday, November 14, 2009
Time: 10:00am - 3:00pm
Location: Obed wild and scenic river

Prizes awarded to top two competitors in each category. The following have men and women divisions: Open (V9-Sick) Advanced (V6 - V8) Intermediate (V3 - V5) The following categories are Unisex: Ancient Hard Person (40+) Junior (13 -) On site registration beginning Friday November 13, 7PM. Great sponsors, activities and venue!


Wednesday, October 7, 2009



Working moves on Omaha Beach 8b+, Red River Gorge.




Photos by Mark A. Large